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Air intake mods


ELEGNT

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At the risk of affending many of you, will moding the air intake really do anything? The car will immediately adjust the intake to the setting it requires to maintain economy and power as setup inside the engine management system.

I thought if you wanted to increase air flow in(into engine) you had to give it a chance to get out (exhaust mod). More air into the engine will not give any benefit at all.

If you want more power you either need to re-program the engine management, add some form of compression either turbo or supercharger(both of which give increased air/fuel). More power less economy.

You can add a the shiney bits you want, but apart from bragging rights do they perform any benefit.

The days where you could cool your fuel before going into the carby (ice cooling) and big low resistance/high air flow filters to achieve a benefit are long gone.

Spitfires etc had a water injection feature to increase power but this was only used in life/death situations and had to be reported immediately on landing so the engine could be checked.

F1 cars used to fill up before the race with super cold fuel as a way off getting a small benefit at the begining of the race. They have abandoned this, turbo's, etc they now use smaller capacity higher reving engines and go faster, output significant power.

Sorry if I have cast doubts on your proposed mods, but if you wanted a sports car then why did you buy a family car?

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the intake on the TRD is being done primarily to give the engine some induction sound. With the stock intake it is basically silent, with the podram etc it sounds tough.

Seeing how it takes all of 10 minutes to swap from the pod setup to the stock airbox, it would be possible to do back-to-back dyno runs to check for any real-world power difference, given that dyno time is typically around the $3/min mark these days including the operator ;)

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Sorry if I have cast doubts on your proposed mods, but if you wanted a sports car then why did you buy a family car?

A) Sports cars come with a multitude of downfalls, from resale value, practicality, size, not to mention the much higher price for a 'decent' sports car. I for one need a full size car for driving/meeting clients, I dont think they ill appreciate being cramped and uncomfortable in a smaller sports car.

B ) Aurion's are fairly sporty as is , Sportivo in particular with extra bracing etc. - I know its no where near a Porsche but the engine & driveline are quite spirited for a 'family car' as well.

C) Alot of these owners have families (or planning to)...but the missus won't let us get a 2-seater or sports car for many womanly reasons which if we even tried to comprehend then our heads would explode.

I dont think anyone actually wants a full blown sports car, just some 'enhancements' to make it more sporty.

Edited by apg39
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Ok guys just received my K&N drop in filter today in the mail. Installation was like a 5 second job (just pop off the clips, remove the old one and slot the new one in and fasten the clips). Unfortunately, there seems to be little or no discernable difference. The whirr of the supercharger sounds a *tad* louder and there seems to be a little bit more acceleration between 3k and 4k rpm, but I attribute that to the placebo effect.

I found that I have no problem with the performance of the vehicle once it's up at 3k+ rpm, but at low revs the torque seems to have a lot of room for improvement. I know it's not a V8 and won't have that "push you into seat" effect but it would be nice to be able to improve the low-down torque if possible. Any ideas?

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I thought if you wanted to increase air flow in(into engine) you had to give it a chance to get out (exhaust mod). More air into the engine will not give any benefit at all.

If you want more power you either need to re-program the engine management, add some form of compression either turbo or supercharger(both of which give increased air/fuel). More power less economy.

You can add a the shiney bits you want, but apart from bragging rights do they perform any benefit.

Sorry if I have cast doubts on your proposed mods, but if you wanted a sports car then why did you buy a family car?

okay... basically here is my response...

exhaust will be done next...

i have a TRD, which is SUPERCHARGED in case you missed that...

every car i've owned which has F/I, when i've free'd up the intake by removing it and putting a pod/cai, its made a HUGE difference... so although it may be "shiny" (which mine is actually not going to be shiny, it's black), it does make an improvement over the stock intake...

i wanted a sporty family car... hence the reason i went with my trd option... it handles way better than what a big car should and its got enough power to embarress the "v8" boys and the stockish turbo 4 guys...

Do they enhance the sound?, because thats all I care about these days.(Hense no more V8's) Just chasing some style with a nice sound.

i only got to rev my car to 3k and i didnt drive it, but it made a HUGE difference in sound in just that little bit...

once its done, i'm happy to meet up and show you what it sounds like...

I found that I have no problem with the performance of the vehicle once it's up at 3k+ rpm, but at low revs the torque seems to have a lot of room for improvement. I know it's not a V8 and won't have that "push you into seat" effect but it would be nice to be able to improve the low-down torque if possible. Any ideas?

thats a little concerning man... you should be getting 336nm by roughly 1800rpm if my memory serves me correctly...

the torque down low should not be something of concern to a trd owner... :huh:

its quite possible that you've just become used to the power now..

get someone else to drive your car and you sit in the passenger seat... it feels a LOT faster when you're not driving it..

one thing i will mention is that when the temps are really really really hot outside (ie, this last weekend), i've noticed that if i'm in peak hour traffic and i'm crawling along and then i want to gun it, its really sluggish down low...

its like my old wrx when i still had the standard top mount i/c and i'd get heat soak from sitting in traffic...

as soon as i start moving again, it goes back to the normal "punchy" throttle response though...

Edited by SecaBoy
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I found that I have no problem with the performance of the vehicle once it's up at 3k+ rpm, but at low revs the torque seems to have a lot of room for improvement. I know it's not a V8 and won't have that "push you into seat" effect but it would be nice to be able to improve the low-down torque if possible. Any ideas?

get someone else to drive your car and you sit in the passenger seat... it feels a LOT faster when you're not driving it..

ROFL!!! That was directed to TRD Aurion Owner. That was some ride Elgin; wasn't it. I don't know about you, but from my perspective in the back seat, that was some intense driving. Hehehehe.

At the risk of affending many of you, will moding the air intake really do anything? The car will immediately adjust the intake to the setting it requires to maintain economy and power as setup inside the engine management system.

Even if it didn't do anything for the performance, if I had the TRD I would pay to have my intake changed just to get more 'whirr' out of the s/c.

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Hmm maybe you're right, I've just gotten used to the power. Also could have something to do with the exhaust note that's playing tricks on me. Or maybe I'm just itching for more mods and need an excuse!! :yahoo:

Daryl that V8 Commodore is absolutely insane isn't it? I nearly creamed my pants a few times during that ride. I'd bet he's not smiling at the bowser though....just makes me wonder how much better those HSVs are, given that the normal V8s are already so fast.

Edited by TRD Aurion Owner
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On my first car (XA falcon 2 door, 351 clev, toploader g/box, 9" diff with 12" on front & 15" on rear), one of my first mods was to replace standard filter with a variable length velocity stack (poking thru the bonnet)sitting on motorcraft 1100 cfm carby with insulating section to reduce heat transfer, replaced the ignition with with hall effect multi-spark system 65kV (seriously dangerous to play with), edelbrock performance intake, performance headers, 2.5" dual exhaust with balance pipe. The most noticeable thing was the very loud suction sound of air rushing into the stack.

Being a variable length stack you could tune it to provide boost to a certain area of the rev range.

I also played with fuel cooling etc, maybe I have outgrown playing with cars. But back then you could do plenty, once computers came on the scene it killed the ability to add bits and play with it get the best out of it.

Just a bit of my history, with maybe a few ideas for others. Velocity stacks offer a benefit in sound and performance, can be used in a ram air effect, tuned for particular performance boost.

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While this thread is still running, I thought I may post up something I have just realised. Remember some time ago I blocked of my lower resonator, swapped the vacuum hoses, and replaced my upper resonator (attached photo)? Well, after this morning I removed my replacement pipe and put the old upper resonator back in and restored the vacuum hoses to the way they are meant to be. Then I needed to drive to TAFE and whatnot, and I really realised just how much louder the intake was with that simple upper resonator replacement. Putting the stock resonator back in, everything was so silent.

But this is not what surprised me the most. With the stock upper resonator back in place, everything may have been really quiet, but I actually noticed an INCREASE in my low end torque, such as off the line acceleration. Maybe the stock intake isn't so bad after all. But now it is a tough decision because the extra noise I had before was definitely nice. This was based purely on how it felt though. It really is hard to determine this kind of stuff. It can't be a placebo effect because I did something completely against what I was doing in the first place.

dsc02815sx2.th.jpg

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While this thread is still running, I thought I may post up something I have just realised. Remember some time ago I blocked of my lower resonator, swapped the vacuum hoses, and replaced my upper resonator (attached photo)? Well, after this morning I removed my replacement pipe and put the old upper resonator back in and restored the vacuum hoses to the way they are meant to be. Then I needed to drive to TAFE and whatnot, and I really realised just how much louder the intake was with that simple upper resonator replacement. Putting the stock resonator back in, everything was so silent.

But this is not what surprised me the most. With the stock upper resonator back in place, everything may have been really quiet, but I actually noticed an INCREASE in my low end torque, such as off the line acceleration. Maybe the stock intake isn't so bad after all. But now it is a tough decision because the extra noise I had before was definitely nice. This was based purely on how it felt though. It really is hard to determine this kind of stuff. It can't be a placebo effect because I did something completely against what I was doing in the first place.

dsc02815sx2.th.jpg

This is something I had pointed out in one of my earlier posts - the intake systems in V6 engines are much more complex than any run-of-the-mill 4 cyl and actually have reasons for all those boxes (resonators) and valves that open at certain points. Altering the valves affects the operation of the entire VIRS system (variable intake resonance system), which you will find makes a HUGE difference in performance generally. Remove the entire system and note the complete lack of torque through the entire range...

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Ok after a few days of driving around and testing, I can positively say that the K&N filter is WORTH EVERY DIME!

I have experienced a noticeable increase in acceleration. This was evident in 2 separate occasions. The first was me switching the car to sequential shift mode and then accelerating hard, as I sometimes like to do (just because I can :D ). Now, after driving the car for a few months I can tell by the engine note and the general pace when to switch gears. This time, I RED LINED and bumped a couple of times off the line before realizing and switching gears. This isn't a hard fact but the car definetely feels quicker. I know my baby well and red-lining it during a normal drive is definetely not usual.

The 2nd time was one night as I was driving home from work and this bloody white R32 Skyline pulls up next to me on the highway and starts going crazy, revving hard and obviously spoiling for a race. I don't really like to race because of the obvious dangers involved, and not being a very good driver I tend not to win anyway. But this time the hoon and his mate were jeering at me through the window and being late and no one on the road, I decided what the heck and gave it a bit of gas to tell him the game was on. I let him pull ahead for a bit, but he quickly increased the distance between us so I decided I had to catch up or else I'd lose for sure. Damn he was going fast but I had to try. I popped it into manual mode, felt the car drop to 4th gear (WHY ALWAYS FOURTH GEAR, TOYOTA???) and dropped it to 3rd. BAM! The whine of the supercharger reminded me to grab the wheel tight as I always do to combat the torque steer, and WHOOSH the car rockets ahead. I pull up to the Skyline and I can see the expression of their faces as their exhaust growls in protest. I decide to really push my machine and I completely OWNED HIM. By this time, I was already at oh-my-***-lose-your-license-ban-you-for-life speeds so I slowed down and he sped off, thinking he had bettered a supercharged 3.5L V6. But me and my baby know better.

It felt good. I've never actually beat someone in a real "race" before. I know the dangers, and trust me I only do it if I am sure the road is completely safe, and never when it involves having to weave around other cars. I certainly don't advocate dangerous driving, especially if innocent lives are at risk. I can't be sure that the new filter helped, but I suspect it did. I guess we'll only know if I put back the stock filter and do some comparison runs. The problem is I think that the engine takes a while to get used to the increased air flow. Also, the flip side is that my average fuel consumption has increased from 10.5-11L/100km to 12.1-12.5L/100km, with no difference in driving style.

Edited by TRD Aurion Owner
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^ Well done, but at the same time tsk tsk tsk .....

Fitting one of those to a TRD would have obvious benefits, but on a normal Aurion im not convinced it will make massive gains yet. Out of them all, the drop-in is my favoured one. Ill get one soon.

Toyota set the manual mode to 4th gear so when your cruising at highway speed it won't make the engine scream & blow up in first gear when you knock it over, and around town it wont splutter in 6th. 4th is about the middle & more 'sensible' for either situation. I dont see why it can't change over to the gear the Auto is currently in, would be better.

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this seems like the only thread i can boast about it in (cause my camry wants to be an aurion when he grows up :P )

i recently completed the same mod on my car as djkor did on his, with removing the upper and lower intake resonators. it really does give it a much nicer sound. i've found my camry v6 sportivo has a nice low end growl anyway, and this has just emphasised it so much more. seems considerably deeper when doing 40km and then fanging it, letting it kick back to first

I dont see why it can't change over to the gear the Auto is currently in, would be better.

that's what i would have thought. seems more sensible to swap it straight over and downshift to whatever gear you want.

Edited by lateralus
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^ Well done, but at the same time tsk tsk tsk .....

Fitting one of those to a TRD would have obvious benefits, but on a normal Aurion im not convinced it will make massive gains yet. Out of them all, the drop-in is my favoured one. Ill get one soon.

Toyota set the manual mode to 4th gear so when your cruising at highway speed it won't make the engine scream & blow up in first gear when you knock it over, and around town it wont splutter in 6th. 4th is about the middle & more 'sensible' for either situation. I dont see why it can't change over to the gear the Auto is currently in, would be better.

Completely agree with you here. It will not make any gains on the standard Aurion, as the intake is already extremely well designed.

Regarding the 4th gear thing, I think even dropping down to first would make no sense either. Why not simply make it stay in the gear it was in during normal auto mode? It's the same thing most cars do in this situation, and makes complete sense. Dropping down to 4th or changing any gear between modes is just stupid design choice and poorly thought out IMO.

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  • 6 months later...

Ahh, this thread brings back memories. This is where I'm to at the moment with Rowans, the end result is getting sandblasted/HPC coated - it's comparable to the cost of stainless (bit more expensive than alloy, but more durable). Once I've got it right, I'll be ditching the brass fittings (only got them because they were cheap as and convenient) and getting the MAF plates CNC'd.

post-8054-1240024626_thumb.jpg

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Ahh, this thread brings back memories. This is where I'm to at the moment with Rowans, the end result is getting sandblasted/HPC coated - it's comparable to the cost of stainless (bit more expensive than alloy, but more durable). Once I've got it right, I'll be ditching the brass fittings (only got them because they were cheap as and convenient) and getting the MAF plates CNC'd.

whats ya guesstamet on finish date & price? i wouldn't mine gettin my hands on one of these little gems. B)

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thats the whole point of this excersise is to sell them off after a its all running sweet on my test one.

ill get the hose tomorw drew got any plans oh the spacers yet? you could use somethin like the bars you use to hold up the exhausts and just cut off a 5mm peice?

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Ahh, this thread brings back memories. This is where I'm to at the moment with Rowans, the end result is getting sandblasted/HPC coated - it's comparable to the cost of stainless (bit more expensive than alloy, but more durable). Once I've got it right, I'll be ditching the brass fittings (only got them because they were cheap as and convenient) and getting the MAF plates CNC'd.

whats ya guesstamet on finish date & price? i wouldn't mine gettin my hands on one of these little gems. B)

what is it? yes yes i'm the slow one....

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thats the whole point of this excersise is to sell them off after a its all running sweet on my test one.

ill get the hose tomorw drew got any plans oh the spacers yet? you could use somethin like the bars you use to hold up the exhausts and just cut off a 5mm peice?

I think I've worked it out, all comes down to how good I can braze with a butane torch :P You can barely even notice I've moved that fitting, as soon as it's coated you won't be able to notice it at all.

Ahh, this thread brings back memories. This is where I'm to at the moment with Rowans, the end result is getting sandblasted/HPC coated - it's comparable to the cost of stainless (bit more expensive than alloy, but more durable). Once I've got it right, I'll be ditching the brass fittings (only got them because they were cheap as and convenient) and getting the MAF plates CNC'd.

whats ya guesstamet on finish date & price? i wouldn't mine gettin my hands on one of these little gems. B)

what is it? yes yes i'm the slow one....

It's a SRI (short ram intake). It basically replaces the whole airbox/piping and should give you a bit of an increase in power/induction noise. To help minimise the heat, the steel will be HPC'd (a ceramic sort of coating) - it looks a million bucks, minimises heat and is very durable. The test one is basically done now, just need the mounts for the MAF sensor, which shouldn't be too hard. Once it's installed, I'll just have to see if it throws any ECU check lights, then work out how to fix it :)

I've been actually thinking about making up a boxed section (unsure of what to make it out of, could either be perspex, alloy or even stainless) to go around the pod utilising the factory mounting points for the current airbox, there's heaps of room in there and should be able to get at least a 3" cold air feed straight into it. If I can work this out, it means you get the best of both worlds from a SRI/CAI setup. We did a S14 yesterday with a similar setup (albeit the pod was going to a turbo, not the throttlebody), it looked really, REALLY good and did the job nicely.

Edited by the_random_hero
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