Ben Yip 's ZRE Facelift

[ben yip]

Pedders camber pin done today at the front. Total $300 include labour (was $500)

Maximum front camber is -2.5, I set to -2.2

No change rear camber already, bit suprised it was around -1.2 after lowering the car..

wheels feel lighter when driving on the street because of less tyre contact, will lower the tyre pressure for street driving to reduce tyre wear..

Also, DBA has produced slotted brake rotor for our corollas, price at $125 disc, no need to got for RDA which prices at $270..

Winton is such as twisty circuit, the car has to be set up for more oversteering for those hair pins, aim to do around 1:50 to 1:52 for my first time

Edited October 31, 2011 by ben yip

[jeffy]

see you at winton ben ;) ~!

[dutchie101]

500 for front camber pins?? Wow thats expensive. I think they normally cost 120 max, plus install and alignment.

[ben yip]

500 for front camber pins?? Wow thats expensive. I think they normally cost 120 max, plus install and alignment.

After refunding, the total is $300, not $500

125 per pair, I need 1 pair, they charge me 110 for alignment, and 75 labour, total is $300

Edited October 31, 2011 by ben yip

[wanga]

awesome sleeper i tell ya...just be done with it and turbo the damn thing haha :D

[Kenshin X]

geez that is super expensive... why did u need 2 pairs for???

[ben yip]

deleted

Edited October 31, 2011 by ben yip

[johnnieboi]

Goodluck for winton Ben. See ya when you come down

[Kenneth.]

I thought camber bolts can only fetch a maximum of -1.5/-1.75 degrees usually. Odd.. Normally you would need 2 pairs per side to net ~-3.0 degrees of camber.

There's also alot of toe-in in the rear. That's going to wear your rear tires out very quickly when coupled with the negative camber already there. I'm guessing with the design of the rear suspension does not permit for toe adjustment unless you use shims to correct the toe?

Edited October 29, 2011 by Kenneth.

[dorifto]

The aftermarket camber bolts in my previous AE92 could dial in -2.5 degrees, funnily enough my standard Chaser camber bolts will happily do -3

[Kenshin X]

this car... pulls... omfg, well done ben. i think a few of us know now the real potential when modded up correctly. and LOL @ dwee

[dwee.]

this car... pulls... omfg, well done ben. i think a few of us know now the real potential when modded up correctly. and LOL @ dwee

Duy had the "WTF?" reaction when I stepped on it! Easy high 1:40's at Winton! @Duy, you were s**tting yourself too, but merely not as much as me! LOL

Not the best photos.. <_<

[Kenshin X]

"the parts in the engine go round and round... bounce bounce bounce... boom boom BANG!" :P ohh toyota engines can take much more punishment i can be sure of that :D

[johnnieboi]

Now i know what i need to do.. good work ben. The unichip really does its magic. So much throttle response in mid-range 3.5k-4. No more laggy acceleration. B)

[ben yip]

waiting to go to eastern creek next week, playing rfactor now to practise the track

Also, time to look up for smash repair to repair my front engine cover from scratches

I start to like FD2 type R more and more

Edited November 9, 2011 by ben yip

[fillit]

i think the FD2 is just a replica :P, i've only ever seen one mugen RR on sale ever in the last 3 years

[4ABHGE]

rFactor!!! :D love it!! used to play that so much, but i moved on to a mac :( Its amazing how that game really does improve your driving

[ben yip]

Went to Eastern creek last night at rain. Scary, but important experience. I almost come at the last of the grip. My driving skills in the wet is poor. Anyone of you can probably go faster than me

First part of video is day time, last time of video is night time, you can see nothing at night. PB is 2:39

I rely on data so much to race, without enough data, I have no idea what is the speed of each corner and braking point. In all my previous races, I keep reading my speedometer for each corner and it gave me very fast PB before. With wet condition and lack of data, I decide just drive slowly

In eastern creek, walls are not far away from you. It is a risk for me to find the limit of the car from scratch. Ultimate goal is to go home safe by not crashing the car

There are few lessons I have to research and learn

1. ABS kicks in under <50% braking position in straight line. How to brake under wet condition?

2. Tyres slips very easily. What is the optimum slip percentage under the wet as compared to the dry (Tyre has optimum grip when the tyre slips a little bit, not too much), research shows around 20%

3. Will the car oversteer more easily in the wet. How to set up the car in the wet?

Maximum speed for my car under the straight is 170km/h just before braking. In the dry, probably expect 175km/h, really not bad

Here is my research so far

Stop distance calculator in wet/dry ABS/no ABS

Click here to calculate stop distance

100km/h to 0, in the dry with ABS=>70metres, in the wet with ABS=>87meteres

Below shows the traction on the dry versus slip.. On the wet, the graph peaks faster and drop faster (Please compare the graph in the wet in chapter 17 google book below)

http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/braking.htm#axzz1e2LefPYY

Got important information here (chapter 17)

On dry pavement, tyre optimum slip angle is 6 to 10 degrees, on wet, it is around 3 to 6, which means driving in the wet with less slipping

Please pay attention to the graph in the book (graph 17.1), rain tyre reaches it maximum tracion quicker and lost quicker than a slick tyre. As a result, rain tyre gives you less warning as when to let go

How to race in the wet

You can tell how much traction is lost in each scenario, and work out the speed in the wet, for example, a 85km/h corner in the dry means around 65km/h in the wet on a general purpose tyre

This article is excellent, it contains everything in detail, tyre pressure, tread, traction

Click for Everything about tyres

Edited November 18, 2011 by ben yip

[clifton]

You're crazy Ben! Night and rain at Eastern Creek lol

[Cee-Lo]

It takes guts to drive on a racetrack in wet conditions, but it can teach you some things about your car's ability to hold the road in the wet, which you can apply to the streets.

Your 'data' based analysis reminds me of Ryosuke Takahashi from Initial D lol.

[ben yip]

You're crazy Ben! Night and rain at Eastern Creek lol

so I come almost at last on the grid.

It takes guts to drive on a racetrack in wet conditions, but it can teach you some things about your car's ability to hold the road in the wet, which you can apply to the streets.

Your 'data' based analysis reminds me of Ryosuke Takahashi from Initial D lol.

Yes, for example, now I know how to do emergency braking in the wet... 50% of braking will give maximum braking distance

To apply on the street in wet

1. I understand the importance of not following the car so close in the wet, you should increase the previous car distance by 100% for safety (according to the data, you lost 50% of friction in the car without ABS, and 30% of friction in the car with ABS).. There are way too many accidents on the wet on the street due to following the car too close. Sydney drivers follow car really close and really impatient

2. I understand the importance of VSC, it is designed for you to steer away from the danger in front of you

3. I understand the tyre in the wet lost grip much more faster than in the dry, due to a very narrow envelop of traction

I am hoping for some open area for me to test the car in the wet to understand more the tyre characteristics on the wet..

Edited November 19, 2011 by ben yip

[4ABHGE]

Having driven on every possible surface out there.. even sand and snow in a variety of vehicles with and without ABS, my advice for braking on only one surface at a time is throw your ABS in the bin. Driving on multiple surfaces at once and slamming on the brakes is a different story, and will just cause your car to spin, this and the fact that many drivers cannot find the threshold of grip when the brakes are applied is the reason why it is placed on modern cars.

With that said, on tarmac with just street driving i recommend it.

Love your approach on applying all your track knowledge to regular street driving mate, keep it up Ben! :)

[johnnieboi]

Tyres + wet = bad. I could of have told you that Ben. =P. You dont even need a night/wet track session to teach you that. Although it does help you anticipate braking/locking up ABS in the future particularly in the wet. I've had many close calls with ABS in the dry let alone the wet. I believe the distance between you and other cars/environment plays a big factor in what happens. No matter how good your tyres and brakes and driver skill is, once you've lost traction thats it, its just what you do next that matters.

Kudos to you though for hitting up Eastern Creek in the wet+night. You friggin crazy man!

[Steven]

You're crazy Ben! Night and rain at Eastern Creek lol

so I come almost at last on the grid.

It takes guts to drive on a racetrack in wet conditions, but it can teach you some things about your car's ability to hold the road in the wet, which you can apply to the streets.

Your 'data' based analysis reminds me of Ryosuke Takahashi from Initial D lol.

Yes, for example, now I know how to do emergency braking in the wet... 50% of braking will give maximum braking distance

To apply on the street in wet

1. I understand the importance of not following the car so close in the wet, you should increase the previous car distance by 100% for safety (according to the data, you lost 50% of friction in the car without ABS, and 30% of friction in the car with ABS).. There are way too many accidents on the wet on the street due to following the car too close. Sydney drivers follow car really close and really impatient

2. I understand the importance of VSC, it is designed for you to steer away from the danger in front of you

3. I understand the tyre in the wet lost grip much more faster than in the dry, due to a very narrow envelop of traction

I am hoping for some open area for me to test the car in the wet to understand more the tyre characteristics on the wet..

You seem to live in a very "by the numbers" world, trying to put figures on things that you shouldn't. Statements like "50% of braking will give maximum braking distance" is what will get you into an accident very quickly.

For your statements

1. Whilst I agree doubling your car distance in the wet is a very good idea, the car's "friction" as you call it is the same with or without ABS. ABS doesn't give you better traction (sorry, I mean "Friction), it's just a driver's aid to assist unskilled drivers. A skilled driver can pull up a car much better than an ABS system can.

2. VSC is designed to keep to car pointing where you aim it - it's the driver who steers away from the danger (ideally)

3. Wha? Maybe this should be translated to "The roads are slippery when wet", but to keep you happy lets throw a few % figures in there and some big words.

[trentmeyer23]

I use graphs too, doesn't make me better at things.