campbeam

😁😁😁 I have had this experience caused by a Discount Used Tyre place. So called mechanic arrived late and checked the other fellow's work. I saw him get the air rattle gun, adjust the setting and retighten the wheel nuts. He must have set the torque setting to MAX. Wheels squealing when the car drove down off the ramps. Something was obviously not right. My protests were ignored and I did not know what I know now to stand my ground and totally INSIST that the wheel nuts be re-torqued to the correct specification before leaving their premises. Drove home for about 30+kms with the wheels/brakes squealing. Wheel nuts were so over-tightened that I had to jump up and down on my wheel brace to loosen them. One time being a short fat fellow worked to my benefit. Also had a brick standing upright on the other end of the wheel brace. Fortunately no broken studs. Afterwards, I did a Google search and discovered that over tightening the wheel nuts can distort the hat of the rotor causing that squealing noise.

That sounds very much what I used to do for the wheel nuts. Now getting lazy or more health concious and use an electric rattle gun. Certainly a lot easier. However, I did use a 1/4" torque wrench for tightening the bolts to specification on the water pump.

Following YouTube video by The Car Nut will give you information about the brakes on Toyota Hybrids. He has also done a series of videos on the Toyota Hybrid which should be worth your time to view.

This thread by Metal_Head is worth a read. Proven results replacing rear mufflers with glass packed resonators.

The following YouTube video shows how ro grease a sealed bearing. After taking the tension off the serpentine belt, I removed both idler bearings then used a pick and a small bladed screwdriver to remove to remove the seal cover. I may have removed the cover on both sides packing the grease into one side and refitting the cover then doing the same on the other side. Next weekend I checked the bearings while they were still fitted and wiped them down to remove any surplus grease. Many months later when I had to replace the water pump, I had to remove the idler pulleys and the bearings checked out just fine. The tensioner pulley also had to be removed and I may have repacked that bearing. [Poor memory 😁] Anyway it was checked and determined that condition was fine with no need to buy a replacement.

Toyota did introduce an upgraded version of the idler pulley to address a squeaking noise issue with earlier versions of the 2GR-FE engine. I have not had to replace the idler pulleys but I have re-lubricated them with silicone grease. Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc

What has happened that oils have been continuously developed to meet higher specifications being demanded by car manufacturers in order to meet more stringent fuel economy targets. Your owners manual is the final guide. However, I refer to the recommendations in the Lube Guides of different oil brands for my specific vehicle. Not so confusing after you have done that. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/

I am looking to the future when the RAV4 Prime or an equivalent performance Camry Prime is available in Australia and it comes with a solid state battery or even better. https://www.motor1.com/news/431972/toyota-rav4-prime-races-camry-trd/

I happened to come across the latest YouTube video released by The Car Nut. Interesting issue about electrical connectivity being fixed by replacing 4 bolts.

This YouTube video will give you a few clues where to look starting from 1:20 mark.

Welcome to the Forum. Nice buy. Bet you are glad that you work at the local Toyota dealership rather than a Holden one or a few other makes on the decline. I am sure that you will have a few stories to tell and some good advice.

I get an accurate reading from the dipstick after the engine has sat overnight. Something that I do most Saturday mornings while doing a quick check under the bonnet.

I thought that I had overfilled the engine by approx. 1 litre when I did an oil change last weekend. At the time, I just removed and drained the oil filter housing but this was only approx. 200ml. So I checked the dipstick this morning and was a bit surprised at the level on the dipstick being high above the full mark. Later, I dropped the oil and refilled the engine to the correct level, Ended up being about 2 litres overfilled. Just checked now and the oil container is actually 6 litres not the expected 5 litres. Fortunately, I have been driving sedately [<2000 rpm] and short distances so no blown oil seals.

Documentation, documentation, documentation. Stick to your guns and let the facts do their work. A great motivator for taking action is being disrespected or treated as a fool. Perhaps mention to the Boss how does he like to be treated personally and the actions of his dealership reflects upon himself. Perhaps challenge him to prove that he is the Boss and in charge to get things fixed i.e. radio and/or antenna.

Forgot to mention that it is the Ironwalls brand and H7 bulbs are applicable for your Camry. Following eBay listing will give you more product details. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Sides-H7-LED-Headlight-Light-Bulbs-pk-HID-Halogen-200W-24000LM-6K-White-Globes/373353006313?fits=Model%3ACamry|Make%3AToyota&hash=item56ed92c4e9:g:en0AAOSwBSpftzob https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H7-LED-Headlight-Light-Bulbs-Replace-HID-Halogen-180W-21600LM-6000K-White-Power/324092318062?fits=Model%3ACamry|Make%3AToyota&hash=item4b7568516e:g:H90AAOSwXGVe8dOL

After 2 years and some refining of my oil change overkill method, I have finally stumbled upon the solution/fix for this blowing white smoke issue. As mentioned in other posts, the underlying cause is the accumulation of oil sludge in the baffles of the valve cover. The oil is not able to drain quick enough and gets sucked up via the PCV system into the intake. One option is to remove the front valve cover and thoroughly clean these oil baffles. Instead of doing this, I have been refilling the engine via the PCV opening re-using the warm engine oil then repeating the process with diesel before using a cheap motor oil to flush the engine then add the new engine oil. I have done this process for about 2 oil changes and this appears to have thoroughly cleaned those baffles so there is no longer any pick up of oil into the PCV system and intake. On the PCV hose leading to the intake, I have fitted an inline filter which has a clear glass section. There no longer any collection of oil droplets onto this glass. I can further confirm this by checking the oil catch can which I have not yet done.

Sometimes there is not much difference between comprehensive and 3rd party property insurance on older vehicles. You could also try using an insurance broker and see if they can be of some assistance.

Reassuring to see Toyota in the No. 1 position for new car sales but I also look at the gap with its rivals and also best selling models. I was somewhat surprised to read this article. https://www.caradvice.com.au/930453/vfacts-mg-leads-another-surge-in-chinese-new-car-sales/ Guess a lot of buyers are voting with their wallets based upon the purchase price with little consideration for future resale value. This means potential lost current sales for Toyota but maybe future customers if they get burnt badly enough with quality, service and warranty issues. Recently I walked past a MG at the local shopping centre and it did look good enough for me to think it was a different brand. However, quality is more than looks. As we say at work, time will tell and best of luck with that plus have a nice day more meaning you will be sorry with that choice. In the meantime, Toyota had best keep on their toes and not get too complacent. Quantity has a quality of its own.

Very handy if you can post some pictures of the end wiring connections. It will be greatly appreciated.

There are a few recent posts about STEDI products for upgrading the T10 parking and reversing lights plus LED light bars. Not sure if the member also upgraded their headlight bulbs. My Aurion has projector type low beam headlights and I have fitted these LED bulbs from a China supplier. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H11-4-Sides-LED-Headlight-Low-Beam-Globe-Bulb-for-Toyota-RAV4-06-18-Aurion-06-12/324163761700 They perform the same as high performance halogen bulbs, put out a nice white light and are long lasting [50,000 hours]. I have had these fitted for many months and so impressed that I bought another pair when the price was <$38. Big advantage is that these are plug n play just like changing a headlight bulb.

Latest Repco catalogue has Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 5Litre for $22 [1/2 Price]. Because their website is currently unavailable, there was this notice " Here's a 10% off* coupon, use 10OFF at checkout, expires in 24 hours. " Expect that that will only apply for online orders today, Thursday 4th March 2021.

Just noticed the email from Repco for their latest catalogue featuring the Mechpro Blue 1700kg Low Profile Trolley Jack for $59. Clicked on the link to go to the Repso website which is down for maintenance. Good news is " Here's a 10% off* coupon, use 10OFF at checkout, expires in 24 hours. " so I expect that this will only apply for today Thursday, 4th March 2021.

What exactly are you say "Yes" to. A more detailed specific reply will be helpful. Personally I am terrible at misinterpreting statements unless they are very specific.

Thank you for the feedback. One of the reasons for being active on the Forum is that you learn and re-learn a lot of useful things. Hopefully, the tow fee was not too much. Last time that I needed a tow was because I did not follow through with my back up plan of having a spare battery. Another one of life's lessons of not to assume that all was well. Toyota Dealer should certainly be able clear the error codes. A mechanic with a professional OBDII scanner is more likely to be able to clear those error codes than my basic low cost scanner.

I am going to disagree that that is normal. When reversing did you notice any wheel spin? This would explain why the VSC warning light. Certainly sounds like the shift has locked and will need to be released. https://carfromjapan.com/article/driving-tips/shift-lock-release-use/ Also support what Tony has posted about checking the trailer wiring and plug. Please post back any developments. Helps the Forum and provides feedback upon what ended up being the cause and the solution.