campbeam

I spent a bit of time [ internet searching ] looking into brake pads and rotors for better braking performance. Ended up coming across a YouTube video by ChrisFix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZltSorr9W0 Good quality tyres make a big difference to shortening the braking distance. Only buy known quality brand tyres. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbMti7VQC1k Got my own personal experience with bargain Chinese brand tyres namely Talon and Goodride which has confirmed the above.

Expect both to be affected. Read somewhere [a long time ago] that wider tyres have to overcome more wind resistance and this in turn impacts upon fuel economy. Something else to consider is less load on a tyre can impact upon braking and handling performance particularly in the wet. A few years ago, I got caught out on wet road and change of road camber resulting in rear end coming around in 180 degree spin temporarily before then whiplashing around to complete the full 360 degree. Fortunately I had about 3 lanes of local highway with no cars nearby. Other experience with slightly wider tyres was hitting brakes hard at 80kph and essentially aquaplaning. Again fortunate that the car starting to pull out of a turning lane stopped otherwise my Camry would have become a write-off.

Guess you will be taking more care about who you let in the driver's seat.

My 2006 Aurion ATX is my daily driver and I have a 2008 Aurion Prodigy as my project standby replacement. So I expect it will be quite some years before a used 2018 Camry V6 will be in my driveway unless I win Lotto big time.

Looks very good as is. Comparatively, 17"tyres are going to cost more.

Going to disagree unless you are driving in peak hour bumper to bumper traffic. There is defensive driving and roadcraft. Driving defenisvely, you have enough braking distance and time to take your foot off the accelerator and be prepared to brake. Roadcraft is where you have enough time to assess the situation and able to action an appropriate option. I also drive with parking lights on. Something I have manually copied from Mr Volvo for many years.

This one looks it will be easier to fit with the 11mm hose adapters. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Billet-Aluminium-Baffled-Oil-Catch-Can-Breather-Tank-Nissan-Toyota-JDM-Black/272946093794?hash=item3f8cdadee2:g:a~oAAOSwZW5aEtaK&rmvSB=true Yes, with 3/8" or 10mm hose from PCV valve to inlet of catch can then hose from outlet to the intake manifold. I have had the combination of transmission hose and in-line filter plus new PCV valve fitted to my standby project Aurion [2008 Prodigy] for quite some months with no smoke on start up. Fitting a catch can may be overkill but for peace of mind it may be worth doing.

It is a safety feature. I have more noticed the instrument lights temporarily increasing in brightness and got used to it. Their issue because they are travelling too close. Nothing unusual for me to have 2-3 times the braking distance of other drivers. Most likely because Mr. Toyota takes a conservative, lower cost and risk approach adopting proven technology rather than being on the "bleeding edge".

Drives you crazy especially when you think it is all fixed. My engine smoked on start up again after I had just cleaned the PCV valve. So a few weeks ago, I replaced the original PCV vacuum hose with 3/8” transmission hose and fitted an in-line filter. Engine has not smoked since although a recent check of the filter showed some possible oil vapour condensation. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10mm-3-8-Inch-Chrome-Finish-Petrol-In-line-Fuel-Filter-Cleaner-Oil-Cleaner/222582313812?hash=item33d2f09354:g:77sAAOSwIhxZaaY1 This last Sunday, I changed the oil filter cartridge.

Toyota Squeaking noise from engine compartment.doc Checking for a worn idler pulley or similar is a starting point for your investigation.

One lesson you should have now learned is to change the brake fluid for your vehicle on a regular basis. Looks like every 2-3 years depending upon the maintenance schedule for your 2003 VXi Mk 3. https://www.cars.com/articles/how-often-do-i-need-to-change-my-brake-fluid-1420680336417/

If like mine, the resonator may have rusted out along a seam and needed to be replaced. Exhaust Back Pressure.doc

My family's 1998 4cylinder 2.2l Camry [bought new] still has the original muffler but the resonator was replaced about 3-4 years ago. Local discount muffler shop offered a few choices and I selected the larger size resonator. I am guessing the previous owner of your V6 Camry would have done the same.

My previous experience with a 1994 Honda Accord indicates that it would highly likely to be a head gasket leak. In my case, the overflow bottle would sometimes become empty. All appeared to be ok then it would repeat a few weeks later. Radiator cap was also replaced. Checked the engine oil, no obvious coolant contamination. I also used the Risone head gasket fix; not wanting to replace the head gasket. Water pump previously had a minor leak which got worse after using the Risone product. End result was an overheated engine, cracked cylinder head and car disposed of for scrap. Suggest that you plan upon having to do a head gasket replacement.

I am very much into preventative maintenance and optimization/efficiency preferring to keep my vehicles stock standard. With that approach, you could look at high flow air filter, iridium spark plugs and high quality low viscosity synthetic oil.

I am not a transmission specialist. In an online U340E tr ansmission repair manual, the troubleshooting guide lists 3 or 4 items to be checked for harsh shifting depending upon the gear change. It is going to be more a case of inspect and check to find the cause.

Let's just say that I never bought the video headline. However I am expecting that UV protection should result in longer tyre life. After reading the following URL, I should put some of this protectorant upon my trailer tyres which are cracked and grey being about 10 years old. https://www.autoevolution.com/news/how-to-protect-your-tires-1409.html

You will be better off upgrading to the Yaris YRS with the 1.5litre 1NZ-FE engine. Personally for highway driving, I would be looking at upgrading to a Corolla Hatchback rather than the Yaris.

Agree. I was more thinking that the nudge bar would help protect the centre of the bumper bar from minor scrapes. I also like to have a towbar fitted to my vehicles to help idiots make a smart decision to keep their braking distance. Still laugh thinking about a car sticker from a local business Enoggerra Radiator and Towbar Centre that said " My towbar, your radiator, no contest."

A nudge bar can be quite handy. I would be inclined to just leave it fitted.

That sounds more positive for outlaying $700.

The following URLs should be relevant to your question. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83-highlander-1st-generation-2001-2007/1029002-swapping-1mz-fe-3mz-fe.html http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/155-avalon-2nd-generation-2000-2004/366072-swapping-vvt-i-1mz-fe-vvt-i-3mz-fe-possible.html http://australiancar.reviews/3MZ-FE-engine.php Personally, my preference is for a non-interference engine. So much easier and cheaper to repair if the timing belt breaks.

Is it a suggestion that it will most likely fix your issue or a solid recommendation that it will definitely fix it? Definitely get a 2nd opinion from a professional automatic transmission shop that has had previous experience with servicing your Toyota transmission model. Check your vehicle's compliance plates for details of your transmission model e.g. U340E or U341E Some internet searches revealed that Toyota released an upgraded valve body so this will determine which transmission filter is applicable to your vehicle.

I would also check the grounding cable connection to the body. Remove any corrosion build up on the cable and make sure about the grounding connection to the bodywork.

Quite simply, I am skeptical of the latest new vehicle trend for increased servicing intervals e.g. 12 month or 15,000 kms. Admittedly, engine oils have improved in the past 40 years and there is ongoing R&D to meet motor vehicle manufacturer's engine demands. In my internet travels, I came across the following article titled "Can Engine Oil Last 20,000 Miles? Here's How Engineers Test That Claim" with an embedded video by one of my favoured presenters. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a14517942/can-engine-oil-last-20000-miles-heres-how-engineers-test-that-claim/ http://www.mobil1.com.au/products/product-oem-toyota.aspx https://www.autobarn.com.au/mobil-1-syn-esp-formula-5w30-5l-dpf-engine-oil Good to know that it is not all marketing hype. Pays to challenge your current thinking/bias based upon past practices of 5,000km oil change intervals to either reconfirm or consider a review of which oils to buy.