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MWR are a reasonably respected name in the aftermarket 2ZZ business, they're not the cheapest (especially with shipping) but the products are usually solid. In this case though it is only the oil pump gear itself which is upgraded (as that was the issue with the stock ones), the housing is new/refurbed OEM Toyota/Aisin. FYI 4340 is the grade used, it's a high-tensile chrome-moly steel. I believe the stock ones are sintered (ie powdered steel pressed in to shape at high pressure/temperature), which contributes to their propensity to shattering (although I think it is much rarer than people are lead to believe, and usually as a result of over-revving via mis-shifting)
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By Finnnbyysherr · Posted
I left my fridge on in car for five days and it completely ran the battery flat. I have replaced with new battery and engine starts but only idols cannot be revved at all. Any ideas? -
By Kevin james marriner · Posted
Hey everyone after advice .have a 99 hilux and my speedo will read fine one moment and then will read excessively high as in off the clock at about 60 and says I'm doing 90 at at 30 any idea's on what to check would be massively appreciated. -
By Angrysubie64 · Posted
My new Monkeywrench Racing Oil pump came in the mail last week ago, which had been shipped from RideRound.nl in the Netherlands. Does anyone know anything about Monkeywrench Racing? Do you all think I made a good choice buying this aftermarket oil pump? I ordered it to to upgrade from the stock OEM one which is vulnerable to disintegration. The aftermarket one is meant to be bulletproof because it is made from some type of so-called '4340 steel'. -
Hi Darryl, I’ve just read your post about loss of power in your UZJ200R and multiple fuel pump replacements. I have the same issue in my 4.7L and was wondering if you were able to get the issue resolved? My loss of power occurs after approximately 5 hours of towing a load (caravan) and results in loss of power and eventual engine backfiring. The problem resolves it self after a few hours of cool down time. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel & air filters, plugs, ignition coils and mass airflow sensor but still have the issue. My auto electrician suggests that I now replace the fuel pump control computer (part no. 89570-60160) that sits on top of the right chassis rail just forward of the right rear wheel. He thinks this might be getting hot which could then affect the integrity of the signals being sent to the fuel pump. I look forward to your reply.
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