campbeam

Will they provide a no questions asked type of guarantee to replace/repair the transmission if it fails after being flushed by their machine? I have seen the amount of build up on the transmission pan and precisely why I would stick with the more expensive option of removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter/strainer.

I am very much DIY and spent quite some time researching how to service the Auruin automatic transmission which is sealed and does not have a dipstick unlike my previous 1998 Camry. Quite a number of internet posts warn against using a machine to flush the transmission which can result in the transmission failing about 6-12months later. You should do your own research to confirm whether I am being too alarmist. At 160,000kms on my 2006 Aurion ATX, I removed the transmission pan and replaced the transmission filter which is referred to as a strainer in the parts manual. I was somewhat surprised at the amount of accumulated sludge on the bottom of the transmission pan. Other Forum members have reported the same. My Aurion has now done 208,000kms and I have replaced the ATF in the transmission pan [approx, 2 litres] annually. As the dealership has included 8 litres of Toyota WS ATF fluid in their quote, I expect that they intend to replace the fluid, drive the vehicle to circulate the fluid then replace the fluid a 2nd time.

Auto electrics is far from being my specialty. In your position, I would start by replacing the blown fuses and a visual check of the wiring looking for any visual damage. Any changes to the wiring, I would regard as suspect for potential shorts causing the fuses to blow.

You could try an eBay search for the rubber cupholder insert. This was one search result. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-09-14-Ford-F-150-Brand-New-Left-Rear-Console-Rubber-Cup-Holder-INSERT-Liner/362701715192?hash=item5472b4f6f8:g:6ZgAAOSwh8VdLZdc&frcectupt=true

Might be a good idea to take some before and after photos to indicate just how much of an improvement comes from cleaning the headlights and also a change of the headlight bulbs.

When was the last time that you had the transmission serviced? What is the odometer reading? At 160,000km on my Aurion, I changed the ATF and the transmission filter.Part of my annual maintenance is to change the ATF. Odometer reading is now 209,000km and no issues.

One possibility is that the fuel injectors were a bit dirty and got cleaned by the additives in the 95 octane fuel. If the code reappears, you can do a bit more diagnosis with your scanner tool. Have a look at the following YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SugtR4KMIDU If you do a Google search on the P0171 error code, you will find most articles suggest a vacum air leak.or to clean the mass airflow sensor https://parts.olathetoyota.com/p0171-code-toyota

As mentioned in the following URL, Replace the small Temperature Switch Sensor that is right next to the Coolant temp sensor https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t17782_ds713065 This may be the part that the above URL is referring to: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t17782_ds713065

Have a read of the following URLs. I would definitely be getting the Iridium long life plugs. https://www.densoproducts.com/learning-center/article/203/how-long-do-iridium-plugs-last https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/iridiumtough/ Following is an eBay listing for Denso IK20TT spark plugs https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DENSO-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-IK20TT-suits-BA-Falcon-Fairmont-Fairlane-10-2004-on/153394218867?epid=11027205859&hash=item23b7020773&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&enc=AQAEAAADAKvsXIZtBqdkfsZsMtzFbFsbX3WcW5fmB%2Fx7ZbaZTyexifYtxh6XLmxBnpHL8comMJ%2B4EoSixcaF2uyyaiLNvBw3yxCdle44orXBafvO0Bc%2F505h%2F08WWnDuXKiJKoTMrPWs%2FFPLI4VyqCSHSZNjpIQBQaBvENV2Wx3dYz1t1qOqK088a3HesypPIt8v4gRU9a7T%2FXFkidjMOYmU8%2F%2FlMj5mR0qwFaRxSY18wSXCjbOSzvXnZnnCARbW%2B%2Bj5z3BCe%2Fpm4BcEXXGxCPqqms%2BZ56T0b3Mf4yVoLKo6GuU54M8hrK1fTwkqy8Lc56VvhAlq5yN5pxCitgBvn7wFwgzy4BgoOyK%2BzxRqzivQcRMsf5fN5ZIxhFhywPgcGZ8wSFg7RLQ1RxzQOAIkwOE27wG4CNQv7ZxOV7T6f483jx%2BNMSzSdllyvZWcW2%2B%2FpyD86Xi5ozIPwe6eI%2FRksv4%2F0gl85f4yBJYW7t92fa6QXhk%2BOEn%2FWisIdMaaUt43NAtCuHXiVRe6vg7UtTVxOXRNkG%2Bz7emdQ2GLoiPgHxycRR4hztziDFCTWB5Rru%2FWEBMgD%2BsL%2BFSxmZyWgOutecmvxNoGCMrd9k4VlQgQGWF7w9O4z2pwg1nX1iZi%2BdjBa%2B0CT0b1X1vLYjBbOYfZSbjaHHOqUBOW9Atey9J2zTB8B6Q6ysV7LDfeyWDd8zD85Z3b6gY3Gaf%2FRM8JUXZn129%2F4DBDhjPgJui5NxseF3AQXiaOQneuuVfHtOP92Ni1k1icxVc%2F34t6MmdKaqqqwZ%2F2qmGdb3EWPceLAOEnMQZieqg6cbJFVS6No4XvM3B%2FljIesUiU9%2BSLfG%2F7IXo9KT7KjbKp3om7UfUej4DJTC7Pxa6KYDUa4KkZ9qK4ql8fXvG8oQ5Y8uyg8T6vwdqjG4O%2FTfD01w3v9awwuAEAqpoUyzc3MhaHJPoxnUibihGig9wzCc9DgrlLTkZ2ok0bnDmskkE9IANffRXqD6ZktB91Prds2JSBQ1C9LPc7B5sAZKa4pPDsPQ%3D%3D&checksum=15339421886756bfb96b81184f7ca551c5ce146ffb28

Have a look at the following YouTube videos which give an indication of what is involved in replacing the timing belt. You can consider just how relevant they are to your vehicle. If you are not DIY, then definitely replace the water pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y74LllY-Lng https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4cg1_r-toU

A $500 quote sounds reasonable to me provided quality parts are going to be used. Fair bit of disassembly work to replace the rear spark plugs and coil packs. I would be insisting upon Denso Iridium spark plugs because of known qualiy even if you have to pay extra or provide them. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DENSO-IRIDIUM-POWER-SPARK-PLUGS-for-TOYOTA-CAMRY-MCV36-3-0L-1MZ-FE-V6-IK20-X-6/400854307656?hash=item5d54c75348:g:lSsAAOxyrM5TH6HL

Without knowing the service history in the last 12 months, I would be considering the following: 1, clean/replace the air filter 2. clean the Mass Airflow Sensor 4. clean the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve 5. engine oil and filter change 6. change the Auto Transmission Fluid 7. check/replace spark plugs [long life iridium plugs] and possibly also the coil packs 8. fuel injector cleaner https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

Just happened to be recently reading up about the P0335 error code which relates to the crankshaft position sensor. Probably best to get a scan of the check engine light so you have a better idea of what the underlying cause is. In the meantime, no harm in checking the electrical connection to the crankshaft position sensor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUJQ6hWjc-g

Last night I kept looking at another section of an online workshop manual and that engine diagram was indicating that the sensor was near the crankshaft pulley. Then looked at some pictures posted by eBay sellers for the 1NZ-FE engine. I had previously looked at this YouTube video and discounted it. Now confirmed that it does correctly show the location for the Yaris crankshaft sensor as being at the rear of the crankshaft pulley and bolts into the timing belt cover. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dll3FUFsou0 Retaining bolt is 10mm. I put the Yaris onto car ramps and removal of the sensor was quite easy. As per usual, hardest part was removing the electrical connector. Hope this helps anyone else that needs or is considering replacing this crankshaft position sensor.

Girlfriend's 2007 3 door hatchback Yaris with the 1.5litre 1NZ-FE recently lit up the Check Engine Light and engine was running quite roughly. Scanner revealed a P0335 error code for the crankshaft position sensor. I reset/erased the code a few days ago and so far it has not reappeared. Engine is running quite smoothly again. I have ordered a replacement sensor from eBay. I did check an online manual for the engine control system and the engine diagram showed the position of the crankshaft position {CPK} sensor being near the throttle body. I have had a good search but have not been able to locate this sensor, so far. At this stage, I am guessing that it is hidden away under the starter motor. Does anyone know the precise location of this sensor?

I have fitted GE Megalight Ultra +130 H11 headlight bulbs and been using them for about 6 months, maybe longer. At first, they did not appear to be that much brighter but after about 2 weeks I thought that they were brighter. What I did notice was the increased light projection distance. Very noticable improvement when on high beam. https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h11 If I had to replace my headlight bulbs, I would also be considering the OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited H11 headlight bulbs which also come with a 12mth warranty. Something else that I have been reading up on is how restoring the headlight lenses results in more light on the road. It is on my to do list.

Following YouTube video shows how to use the spill free funnel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hNEgD52MB0 I do not have one so I just used an ordinary funnel to fill the radiator until the coolant covered the radiator fins then just gently squeezed the radiator hoses a few times to air bleed the cooling system. I then fully filled the radiator, replaced the cap and then slighly overfilled the coolant overflow bottle. I then started the engine and checked that all appeared to be ok before driving as normal. Later, check the coolant level in the overflow bottle and top up, if required There is an air bleed port on the engine but I left it alone due to past experience of breaking one off on another vehicle. http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-3-5l-v6-2gr-fe-coolant-bleeding-trick/

Have a read of the following URLs: https://fueldoctors.com.au/product/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFR-JB-jizQ https://www.nulon.com.au/products/pro-strength-additives/diesel-fuel-system-extreme-clean?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8-b7v-z4wIViB0rCh1K4woFEAAYBiAAEgIaR_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Milo, it appears that you really want to make the effort to fully flush the cooling system so that all of the old coolant is replaced. As you have already mentioned, flushing the system a few times with distilled water would be an effective option. I would then go for a concentrated coolant making your own mixture also taking into account the amount of distilled water remaining in the cooling system. I use the Penrite concentrate which I previously bought on special. https://www.autobarn.com.au/nulon-red-long-life-coolant-5l-rll5 Something I have done for the last few years has been to remove the coolant overflow bottle and give it a good clean inside, annually. The coolant in the bottle was disposed of and replaced with a new mixture. I have recently drained the radiator as part of the process to replace the alternator, so it will be a while before I consider whether the overflow bottle needs a cleaning.

Have a read of the following URLs: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a91/1272436/ https://www.tectaloy.com.au/corrosion-inhibitor-concentrates

Possibly warmer weather and use of silicone spray will reduce the risk as well as the usual softly softly approach.

Hopedfully, you have a manual with the steps for the dash removal. Following URLs will give you an idea of the work invilved. http://www.corollaforum.com/threads/dashboard-rattling-fix.5579/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifpUdQGZEes Easiest outcome would be if there are retaining screws just need to be retightened and the dash repositioned. One can only hope until reality happens.

I just turn on the parking lights.

If you want to tweak tyre sizes, following is a handy calculator. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

My first thought is that the weather may have gotten colder in the last month. Just something to consider. Assuming that your vehicle has done less than 100,000Kms, I would expect that the spark plugs and coil packs are fine. . I use 91 unleaded petrol. I have also been putting fuel injector cleaner in the petrol tank but not recently. Probably better off using 95 octane or 98 octane petrol. I refuel usually around the 1/2 full mark and well before the 1/4 full mark. Just reckon [or is that unfounded wishful thinking] that it helps the fuel pump and filter with the fuel delivery. You also mentioned the oil light flashing on and off. I would be inclined to check the oil level and also consider whether an oil and filter cartridge change is due. Something to remember is that the 2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludging than some other modern engines. Use of quality engine oils and regular servicing is essential. Most of my driving is short distance urban so my engine is operating in prime time conditions for oil sludging. Consequently, I am doing oil and filter cartridge changes about every 2 months.